As designers from the old guard passed on and enigmatic Antwerp figures faded into the background, Versace’s quintessentially family affair established them as something like the fashion world’s own royal family, with just as much intrigue. Following Gianni’s untimely death in 1997, operations were taken over by Santo and Donatella Versace, who oversaw the business and creative operations, respectively. For nearly 40 years, the two lived in perfect symbiosis, with the tumult and drama of one world reflecting and building off of the other.įounded in 1972 by Gianni Versace, the Italian fashion brand is in many ways the paradigmatic Italian fashion label of the late-20th century, perfectly formed for the ever-shifting glitz of the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s. Five words that describe both the house of Versace and the family of the same name. Where the corporate signifies coldness, luxury is activated by intimacy, and a sense of personal connection.Glamorous. More than ever, that means Donatella-who wasn’t made available for comment this season-is the heart and soul of Versace, the human connection that enables the emotional aspect so key to luxury. For new generations, authenticity is antonymous with marketing. Now, Versace’s challenge is to translate that family soul into an ever-growing super brand, without looking too corporate.
It’s the brand’s unique selling point, part of the reason Donatella’s once-reluctant decision to revisit those ’90s prints paid off, with both the company and retailers continuing to report growth.
VERSACE RUNWAY SERIES
The family values of Versace are well-documented beyond the borders of fashion, in TV series and film. Under Donatella’s reign, Versace’s authenticity has manifested in her personal story.
When it comes to getting young people to wear your monograms, a tribal symbol of belonging, the latter is key. As the show’s casting suggested-a mix of top models diverse in every way, branded head to toe in the Versace emblem-the house is targeting the new youth with their values of empowerment, emancipation, and, indeed, authenticity. Keeping things pattern-oriented, the new monogram extends that arm, but it remains to be seen if those who identify with Versace will welcome it like they did those authentic reissued prints-and invest in single Vs rather than LVs. It was unmistakably young, if the wardrobes of the starlets of the social media age are to be believed: skimpy hemlines with top-heavy jackets, tone-on-tone dressing, and some very bright color moments. Sci-fi fabric treatments and styling stuff like harnesses fused with 1970s silhouettes in a slightly retro-futuristic expression were backed up by sculptural streetwear shapes and little bionic dresses. Under the sea of monograms, the garments themselves were-in contrast-a viable proposal for a post-lockdown wardrobe: easy, smart, and real. Here, models effectively walked through monograms wearing monogram clothes, carrying monogram bags, and accessorizing with monogram jewelry. In the film Versace released today, La Greca had been blown up into a massive wooden structure that framed a runway-style show. Named La Greca, it’s a take on the brand’s heritage Greek Key pattern turned trompe l’oeil in the genre of Balmain’s Labyrinth, Goyard’s Chevrons, or Moynat’s infinite Ms. In case it wasn’t clear, Versace is launching a new monogram.
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